Peel the cucumbers and slice them into 1/2-inch thick rounds. Place the sliced cucumbers in a colander or bowl and sprinkle with the salt and sugar, tossing gently to coat evenly. Let sit for 20 minutes—this draws out excess moisture from the cucumbers, which concentrates their flavor and prevents a watery salad. After 20 minutes, drain thoroughly, pressing gently on the cucumbers to release any remaining liquid, then transfer to a serving bowl.

While the cucumbers are sitting, place the pressed or finely minced garlic cloves in a small heatproof bowl. Heat the light olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat until it shimmers and just begins to smoke lightly (around 350°F)—this heating step is crucial as it mellows the raw garlic's harshness while infusing the oil with deep garlic flavor. Carefully pour the hot oil over the garlic and let it cool for a minute or two. I find that using pressed garlic rather than minced gives you a more uniform, potent infusion that distributes beautifully throughout the salad.

To the drained cucumbers in the bowl, add the garlic oil mixture from Step 2, then pour in the seasoned rice vinegar and soy sauce. Add the toasted sesame seeds, sesame oil, red chili flakes, and cilantro. Toss everything together gently but thoroughly, making sure the dressing coats all the cucumber slices evenly. I prefer to add cilantro just before serving to keep it fresh and bright, rather than letting it wilt in the dressing.